It's Delicious No Matter What You Call It

Recently, I caught a rerun of the famous Soup Nazi episode from the popular sitcom “Seinfeld.” When the characters discussed mulligatawny, a soup from India, I felt happy, the way you generally do when you hear about a good guy from your hometown making a name for himself in the wider world. With its prime-time, national-network TV appearance, this dish from South India had entered the American food lexicon, I felt.

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