On the last day of school, no matter which city we lived in, we would be on the evening train to Madurai. The overnight train journey was always fun–but our annual destination–we were a little less excited about that.

Madurai was my father’s hometown and my grandparents still lived there. The heat, the mosquitoes, the bathrooms a slippery tenth of a mile from the house, the sheer lack of things to do – these were some of the reasons we might have cited – if anyone cared to ask me or my brother about our lack of enthusiasm.

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